Viking River : Romantic Danube | Budapest to Regensburg | Part 1
Our first river cruise - Viking’s Romantic Danube from Budapest to Regensburg - was unlike any holiday my husband and I had ever taken together before. We usually choose UK staycations, European city breaks or lazy beach escapes. So sailing through the heart of Europe felt like stepping into something new.
I’d been lucky enough to experience Viking Ocean and Viking Expedition ships on press trips, but this was the first time either of us had tried river cruising. And the itinerary we chose turned out to be a perfect introduction. In this, the first post, I’ll take you from Hungary’s capital, Budapest, to Austria’s capital, Vienna.
Romantic Danube Itinerary
To set the scene, here’s a brief look at the itinerary. Viking’s Romantic Danube voyage spans eight days and takes you through some of Europe’s most scenic and culturally rich regions, with five guided tours across Hungary, Austria and Germany. The route covers 472 miles (760km) and 14 locks between Budapest and Regensburg, as we did. Or you can sail in reverse, from Regensburg to Budapest, gliding along the famous ‘Blue Danube’ (spoiler: it’s not always blue) past medieval towns, grand imperial capitals and sweeping riverside views.
Day 1 | Budapest, Hungary
In late October 2024, our holiday began with a British Airways flight from London Heathrow to Budapest, complete with an unexpected dose of feel-good drama before we’d even left the ground. As my husband settled into his seat, the lady next to him smiled and said, “Well, this is going to be an interesting flight, isn’t it?” He hesitated, unsure how to reply, until she went on to explain. She was flying as a surprise for her son - who just happened to be the captain of our plane. Recently promoted, he had no idea she was on board. To celebrate, she’d brought along his favourite homemade cakes and planned to alert the crew once we were airborne (thankfully) in the hope he could come out of the flight deck to see her. Sure enough, mid-flight he appeared, clearly delighted. It was such a heartwarming start to our journey.
Once we’d landed and stepped through arrivals, a Viking representative was there to greet us and guide us to our waiting minibus. A short ride later, we were standing on the banks of the Danube in front of our floating ‘home from home’ for the next week - Viking Egil - moored right in the centre of Budapest, beside one of the eight bridges linking the historic halves of the city: Buda and Pest.
At the gangway, we were warmly welcomed aboard by Hungarian-born Programme Director Margó. After a quick check-in, we were shown to our elegant Veranda Stateroom (which you can take a look around here). Moments later, we were whisked away on a guided Welcome Walk, a chance to stretch our legs and get our first taste of the city right on our doorstep.
The approach to Budapest’s Liberty Bridge, its green ironwork leading the way across the Danube
Having passed by the Liberty Bridge (above), we strolled along Váci Utca, Budapest’s main pedestrian shopping street. Our local guide shared stories of traditional Hungarian food and drink, from lángos - a hot, deep-fried flatbread often topped with soured cream, grated cheese and garlic - to Pálinka, the fruity local brandy; Unicum, a herbal liqueur drunk as a digestif and apéritif; and Tokaji, the region’s famous sweet dessert wine.
At the Great Market Hall (below), the city’s largest and most famous indoor market, we discovered to our surprise that gulyas (goulash) is actually a soup rather than a stew. There was ample opportunity to buy its key ingredient, paprika - Hungary’s national spice - in all its many forms.
Sunset over Elisabeth Bridge and the Danube, with river ships moored side by side
After returning to the ship, we made our way to the Lounge for the Welcome Briefing and Port Talk, followed by Safety Instructions. Then it was time for dinner. On the Viking Gullveig, dining takes place in the Restaurant and on the Aquavit Terrace. You’ll find tables for two on the latter. However in the Restaurant, the smallest tables seat six people.
That first evening, I asked if a group of four would mind if my husband and I joined them, and we had a lovely time chatting. They were two American couples who regularly go on holiday together and this was their first Viking cruise. We shared so many fun conversations, not only that evening but also at other meal times when we arranged to meet up. Our new friends went on the ‘Budapest by Night’ optional excursion, while we meandered around the city’s illuminations (below) on our own.
The Chain Bridge in Budapest illuminated at night
Day 2 | Budapest, Hungary & Scenic Sailing
Overnight, the ship remained at its berth. After a delicious breakfast in the Restaurant, we set off on the Panoramic Budapest excursion by coach, beginning in modern Pest and passing by the National Opera House and Heroes’ Square.
A stunning panoramic view of Budapest and the Danube river from the historic Castle District
Crossing the river to Buda, we visited the Castle District and the Fisherman’s Bastion (below), one of my favourite buildings in the city. The Bastion may look old, but it was actually built between 1895 and 1902. Its name comes from the guild of fishermen who were charged with defending this section of the castle walls during the Middle Ages. I loved its fairytale turrets, as you can perhaps gather from the number of photos I took…
After our guided walking tour of the medieval Buda Hill Castle area, we had some free time to explore on our own.
While we were on shore, the ship continued along the Danube, and we rejoined her at the town of Visegrad in time for lunch (below).
Viking Gullveig, our home from home
The afternoon brought an engaging talk by Margó about the elegant world of Austrian coffee houses and Mozart’s remarkable life. Following the evening’s Port Talk and a delicious dinner, we joined fellow passengers in the Lounge for an entertaining game that provided plenty of laughter. It was the perfect way to wind down before retiring to our comfortable stateroom for the night.
Enriching Insights | Budapest & Hungary
- Budapest: Created in 1872 when Pest, Buda and Óbuda were united.
- Harry Houdini: Born Erik Weisz in Budapest in 1874; later emigrated to the USA.
- Buda & Pest: Buda rises on the hills of the river’s western bank, while the larger Pest stretches across the flat plain opposite.
- WW2 History: In 1945, German army units resisted the Soviet advance; all of Budapest’s Danube bridges were damaged or destroyed.
- Ernő Rubik: Invented the Rubik’s Cube in Budapest in 1974.
- Hungarian Names: Traditionally written as surname, then first name.
- Lake Balaton: The largest lake in Central Europe, located about 50 miles (80 km) southwest of Budapest.
Day 3 | Vienna, Austria
We sailed through the night along the Danube, docking in Vienna around 9am the following morning. Our included shore excursion, Panoramic Vienna, began with a coach tour along the famous Ringstrasse, the grand boulevard that replaced the city’s medieval walls in the late 19th century. The scenic drive was followed by a guided walking tour of Austria’s capital city. We visited the magnificent Hofburg Palace (below), winter residence of the Habsburgs and home of the Spanish Riding School with its Lipizzaner horses.
The elegant green dome of St Michael’s Wing at Hofburg Palace
Below is a photo of the Neue Burg wing of the Hofburg Palace, which overlooks Heldenplatz. On March 15th 1938, crowds gathered here to watch Adolf Hitler step onto the balcony and proclaim Austria’s annexation into the German Reich.
Neue Burg wing of the Hofburg Palace, overlooking Heldenplatz
Before returning to the ship, we had time to wander the city a little on our own. We couldn’t resist popping into the traditional Viennese coffee house, Café Hawelka (below), for a coffee and a slice of classic Sachertorte: chocolate sponge layered with apricot jam and finished with glossy chocolate icing.
In the afternoon, following lunch aboard the ship, we managed to get last-minute tickets for an optional excursion to Schönbrunn Palace (below), the summer residence of the Habsburgs and Austria’s most visited landmark. Built to rival the sprawling Château de Versailles, it features stunning Imperial apartments and grandly furnished rooms.
Schönbrunn Palace, the summer residence of the Habsburg dynasty
Ornate chandeliers dominating the Great Gallery at Schönbrunn Palace
Once we were back on the ship and had attended the Port Talk, we enjoyed dinner in the Restaurant and ended the evening with a performance by a Viennese Jazz Trio.
Day 4 | Vienna, Austria
Overnight, the ship didn’t move, so the next morning we had plenty of options. Guests could join an excursion to the Slovakian capital, Bratislava, take an e-bike ride through Vienna’s countryside or go behind the scenes with the famous Lipizzaner horses.
We decided on our own little adventure and headed back into Vienna. The ship was moored just a short stroll from Vorgartenstraße U-Bahn station and buying a ticket was quick and easy. Four stops on the U1 Line whisked us straight to Stephansplatz; just don’t forget to validate your ticket before you travel.
Stepping out of the station, we were greeted by the magnificent St Stephen’s Cathedral (below), Austria’s tallest church. I couldn’t take my eyes off the colourful roof tiles, arranged in a bold zigzag pattern. Inside, the soaring Gothic architecture was every bit as breathtaking.
Famed for its Kaiserschmarrn (sweetened shredded pancakes), the elegant Demel coffee house (below) had come highly recommended, and it didn’t disappoint. Inside, gilded mirrors caught the light from ornate chandeliers, while outside, tables provided the perfect spot to watch Vienna go by. We couldn’t resist the sunshine, so we chose to sit outdoors.
Then came the toughest decision of the day: which of the gorgeous cakes to try. After much deliberation, my husband chose a slice of apple strudel with vanilla sauce, while I settled on Esterházytorte - delicate almond meringue layered with silky custard buttercream and topped with a glossy fondant glaze.
That evening we’d booked an optional excursion, a recital by the Vienna Residence Orchestra (below). The music was everything we’d hoped for, from the Strauss waltzes to the Mozart overtures, with elegant dancing adding to the magic.
The Vienna Residence Orchestra
When we returned to the ship, steaming bowls of hearty goulash awaited us on the Aquavit Terrace - a perfect way to warm up. At 11.30pm, with the city lights fading behind us, Viking Gullveig set off for Krems, Austria.
Enriching Insights | Vienna & Austria
- Vienna: The world’s second-largest German-speaking city after Berlin.
- Viennese Coffee Houses: Coffee is usually served with a small glass of water, often with a teaspoon balanced face down to show it was freshly filled - a Habsburg-era tradition.
- Ball Culture: Vienna hosts over 400 balls each year during the ball season.
- Wienerwand: Provides 22 public walls across the city where graffiti is legal, allowing artists to express their creativity freely.
- Danube Canal: Several beach bars with sand, deckchairs and hammocks; Strandbar Hermann is the largest.
- Austria: A neutral country, not currently a member of NATO.
Coming Up
Part 2 will follow shortly. In the meantime, if you’d like to discover more about Viking’s Romantic Danube itinerary, visit the Viking website. To take a comprehensive tour of our ship, Viking Gullveig, head to this blog post.
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(Photography | Rona Wheeldon)